Showing posts with label comparative historic mixology. Show all posts
Showing posts with label comparative historic mixology. Show all posts

Saturday, May 26, 2018

62. Brut Cocktail (French Style)


This interesting recipe deserves a little preliminary study, as it has evolved somewhat over time through the various editions of Jack’s Manual. If one were to follow it as presented in the 1933 edition, one would be missing some important details. Here it is in 1908:

Not only do we have here more ample directions regarding the chilling and dilution of the drink (mixing-glass full of shaved ice), but also somewhat different proportions based on the jigger system, which has the effect of decreased Picon and increased Vermouth (this recipe matches that in Boothby’s book of the same year), and two more dashes of Angostura. In addition, we have the instruction to serve in a cocktail glass. JM 1910 introduces the first set of changes:


Here we still have the mixing-glass full of shaved ice, the good stirring, and the cocktail glass service, but the Angostura bitters have been deidentified and significantly reduced to a single dash, and the proportions significantly altered from a 1:2 to a 1:9. In face, the drink has become quite a bit more focused on the French Vermouth. This may be an attempt to bring the recipe more in line with other/earlier sources, an authenticizing, if you will. This does not last long. After Straub 1913, with its two Brut Cocktails, this Jack’s standard gets shifted to line up with Straub’s “French Style,” adding the epithet in the process, though Jack’s non-French Brut isn’t an exact copy of Straub’s. JM 1914 show influence from the Straub formula:
 
 At the same time, this is not an exact copy of Straub, but a reformulation actually increasing the Amer Picon quotient. If he had followed Straub, he would have reverted to his 1/3 and 2/3 jigger recipe. Customers may have preferred the stiffer, Picon-heavy version. But more importantly, it was in 1916 that Jack introduced his novel percentage system, replacing the old jigger system.

My interpretation:
  2 oz. Dolin Vermouth
  1 oz. Amaro CioCiaro
  4 dashes Angostura bitters.

In a mixing-glass full of fine ice stir well (20 seconds), strain, and serve. I have used a bar glass here but a (stemmed) cocktail glass would be most proper to the original intent.


Tuesday, April 17, 2018

17. Auto Cocktail


This is the drink also known as the Automobile Cocktail. Being still on the page 42 of the 1933 Edition and therefore lacking the specific vermouth attribution, we continue to apply comparative historic mixology and consult the 1916 Edition:
That’s certainly clearer. Once again, we are informed not only that the Vermouth is French but that the Gin is (Old) Tom. Curiously, most recipes today seem to call for Sweet or Italian Vermouth

My interpretation:
  1.25 oz Vermouth (Casa Mariol Negro or M&R Extra Dry)
  1.25 oz Uncle Val’s Restorative Gin
  0.75 oz The Famous Grouse Blended Scotch Whisky

Shake over ice, strain and serve. Garnish with lemon. Note that I decided to try both, and I have to say it’s close, but I lean toward the Dry. I’d certainly accept either if I were offered it. For a sweeter, more Scotch-heavy variant, see the Butcher (No. 65).


Monday, April 16, 2018

16. Astoria Cocktail


Note: This page (42) in the 1933 edition of Jack’s Manual seems to be missing its attributions to distinguish which vermouth is needed. Now, we could go back to the original recipe for this famous hotel cocktail. But comparative historic mixologists need look no further than the enlightening 1916 edition of the Manual:
Note, not only is it French or Dry Vermouth, but the Gin is (Old) Tom!
 
My interpretation:
  1 dash Fee Brothers Orange Bitters
  1.75 oz Uncle Val’s Restorative Gin
  1.25 oz Martini & Rossi Extra Dry mixed with Dolin Blanc.

Stir over ice, strain into cocktail glass, garnish with lemon rind. 

Following the 1933 edition as much as possible, I decline the Old Tom Gin. Either tastes changed after Prohibition, or Old Tom couldn’t be got so easily anymore, or (since Jack still calls for Old Tom elsewhere) the recipe was altered. And here again I felt a little softening of the vermouth with Dolin Blanc was called for—perhaps that touch of sweetness which the Old Tom would have provided.
 

Turning the Page

Greetings! We have come to the end of the Cocktails section from Jack’s Manual (1933). In the process of our study, we have discovered so...