Saturday, May 26, 2018

62. Brut Cocktail (French Style)


This interesting recipe deserves a little preliminary study, as it has evolved somewhat over time through the various editions of Jack’s Manual. If one were to follow it as presented in the 1933 edition, one would be missing some important details. Here it is in 1908:

Not only do we have here more ample directions regarding the chilling and dilution of the drink (mixing-glass full of shaved ice), but also somewhat different proportions based on the jigger system, which has the effect of decreased Picon and increased Vermouth (this recipe matches that in Boothby’s book of the same year), and two more dashes of Angostura. In addition, we have the instruction to serve in a cocktail glass. JM 1910 introduces the first set of changes:


Here we still have the mixing-glass full of shaved ice, the good stirring, and the cocktail glass service, but the Angostura bitters have been deidentified and significantly reduced to a single dash, and the proportions significantly altered from a 1:2 to a 1:9. In face, the drink has become quite a bit more focused on the French Vermouth. This may be an attempt to bring the recipe more in line with other/earlier sources, an authenticizing, if you will. This does not last long. After Straub 1913, with its two Brut Cocktails, this Jack’s standard gets shifted to line up with Straub’s “French Style,” adding the epithet in the process, though Jack’s non-French Brut isn’t an exact copy of Straub’s. JM 1914 show influence from the Straub formula:
 
 At the same time, this is not an exact copy of Straub, but a reformulation actually increasing the Amer Picon quotient. If he had followed Straub, he would have reverted to his 1/3 and 2/3 jigger recipe. Customers may have preferred the stiffer, Picon-heavy version. But more importantly, it was in 1916 that Jack introduced his novel percentage system, replacing the old jigger system.

My interpretation:
  2 oz. Dolin Vermouth
  1 oz. Amaro CioCiaro
  4 dashes Angostura bitters.

In a mixing-glass full of fine ice stir well (20 seconds), strain, and serve. I have used a bar glass here but a (stemmed) cocktail glass would be most proper to the original intent.


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Turning the Page

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